4-Wheeler Hunting Tips from someone who learned the hard way, this roundup covers everything from a homemade plywood rack to rifle security that actually works in bear country. These field-tested hacks come from years of trial, error, and one very memorable swim for a Leupold scope.
Story by Sarah Stallone. Originally published in the Fall 2023 issue.
The final miles after a successful 4-wheeler hunt in southcentral Alaska. © Tony Stallone
From Boots to Wheels: Learning to Hunt on an ATV
Growing up in Colorado, we didn’t have the opportunity to hunt any other way than by the good ol’ “shoe-leather express.” In my youth, I wore through the soles of several pairs of hiking boots chasing dreams and following my dad all around the Rockies. Motorized hunting was something I considered only for those unable to hike or perhaps for the sissies who didn’t want to. It wasn’t until coming to Alaska that the benefit of motorized transportation in the field was introduced, and quite a learning curve has ensued.
If you’re already an expert 4-wheeler hunter, skip this column, write your own, and send it to me—I’m still learning! For the few of you that may still be new to the concept, with this article I seek to pass on a few of the things I’ve learned and save you some time in trial and error.
Reinvented Rack: Flat is easier to tie down to, and though the open rack system on most ATVs provides infinite tie down points, it’s difficult to stabilize large, bulky or flat items, like quarters of meat, action packers or fuel cans. My brilliant engineer husband created a simple, treated-plywood platform that connects over the existing rack, something you can do too. (See picture 1). This base still allows for tie-down access points but facilitates a much more stable and wider load capacity and doubles as a convenient flat surface after your gear has been distributed into camp. Be careful not to exceed the intended load weight of the rack underneath.
Ratchets Instead of Bungies
I’ve taken some crazy loads into some crazy places tied down by copious quantities of bungies. I’ve dumped my fair share of loads too, usually within that first mile where everything settles in for the ride. My husband taught me that the best way to tie down awkward-shaped loads is with a one-piece ratchet—a lightweight ratchet head that connects back into its own strap instead of a separate hook. By zigzagging over and around the load, and ratcheting it down, you get a multi-point hold in one- or two straps and can easily tighten it when stretched straps or load settling occurs. The main load tie-downs are ratchets, and bungies serve as tensioners and quick holds for the rifle, raingear, tripod, etc.
A two-liter dry bag clipped around the steering column conveniently holds quick grab items like a warm hat and gloves and a water bottle. © Sarah Stallone
Dry and clean wins in the backcountry
Motorized hunting is messy. If it’s raining, EVERYTHING is covered in mud. If it’s not raining, EVERYTHING is covered in dust. You simply cannot win. Again, my husband’s brilliant thinking saves the day: He wraps his back-rack load in a single tarp, like a delicious waterproof burrito and cinches it down for the ride. You may only get a few seasons on the tarp as it takes a tremendous beating, but man, is it nice to unwrap clean, dry gear when it’s time to park the wheelers and start hiking. Take care not to orient ratchets on the back behind the tires as they will get filled with dirt or mud. Higher on top of the load, or in front (if it’s comfortable for the rider) is best.
Quick Grab Bag (My favorite hack!)
On a moose hunt back in 2017, we unloaded from the trailer in a typical September deluge through which I carefully tarp-wrapped my gear, snugging it tightly to the back rack. Miles down the trail and 30 degrees of temperature loss later, I realized that important items like water and extra warm layers were buried deeply in the middle of my waterproof roll. The effort required to get to the needed items was immense, so I did without and had a memorably miserable ride. Now, I stash important items on top or in a “quick grab bag.”
I chose a two-liter, waterproof roll-top duffel (see second picture from the top on page 17) and filled it with gloves, a warm stocking hat, a medium-sized water bottle, snacks, and a headlamp with extra batteries. I clip it around the base of the handlebars away from my knee or steering range and secure it with a bungie. Contents vary by season or trip duration, but these are the basics. Puffy layers and rain gear (if it’s somehow not in use) get rolled in each other forming a waterproof log which I tuck under the top bungies for quick access.
Treated-plywood flat racks extend the useable tie-down surface of an existing rack and provide a convenient flat surface in camp. © Sarah Stallone
Tony (the author’s husband) shows that flat racks, ratchet tie straps, and quick-grab rifles make for efficient and less frustrating wheeler hunt trips. © Sarah Stallone
Quick Grab Rifle
A dozen ways, I’ve tried to find the balance of rifle access and security, and failed. I remember a hunt where I had no reasonable way to keep the rifle protected from the elements but also quickly at hand for the area’s abundant, though spooky, moose. There would be no time to jump off the wheeler and dig out a secured rifle for a shot. The pressure of the shoulder-slung rifle ended up shearing off the sling swivel, sending the rifle cartwheeling down a steep riverbank I was navigating, landing it with a splash in the rushing river below. That’s a terrible way to start a hunt in bear country—good thing the scope was a Leupold!
Now, I secure the rifle in a half-zipped soft case, with the magazine loaded, chamber empty, bolt closed. The soft case slips inside a waterproof gun sleeve that then gets bungeed to the top of my load. Extra ammo and my spotting scope slip in the dry bag next to the soft case for quick access. When needed, I unclip two- or three bungies, unroll the waterproof bag, and pull the rifle out for immediate use. Though not perfect, this method has served me very well for many years!
There is more than one way to apply power
On long hunts or 4×4 trips, your throttle thumb can fatigue. Some machines can be retrofitted with left-hand throttles, or you can flip the throttle to the reverse side of the handlebar, but this is expensive and model specific. Try the method shown in the picture at the bottom left of this page, using the index finger for throttle. This works great while surfing (leaning off the machine for a counterbalance), backing up, or in the standing position on steep hills. It’s a great way to give your thumb a little break on a long ride.
Throttle Control is Everything
This is especially true when you’re riding rough country. You’ll do more steering and less tipping just by regulating the throttle than you ever will with body English or horsing handlebars. I found throttle traction to be vital and now, regardless of weather, I ride wearing a neoprene Kenai Glacier Glove, loving how it sticks to that slippery throttle even when you’re getting bucked around a rough mountain or stretched to your limits surfing a steep angle with only a fingertip available to reach the throttle.
Note the Kenai Glacier Gloves, which give excellent all-weather throttle traction for better throttle control. © Sarah Stallone
Perhaps these tips will help you on your next motorized hunt and save you some of the frustration or discomfort that comes with any learning process. Best wishes for great hunting this fall!
Sarah Stallone is an avid hunter, firearms instructor, and Territory Manager for Leupold Optics. She is grateful to be living in Alaska, enjoying the outdoors with her family whenever possible. For more, visit AccurateAdvantage.US or Leupold.com.